The model and the chef Roze Traorehe has checked all the major-name boxes in New York City, which lead to prominence in his dual professions.
Mr. Traore’s résumé includes stints at Eleven Madison Park the restaurant at the NoMad Hotel. He’s worked as a private chef for high-profile clients, including the Soho House, a private club in Manhattan’s meatpacking district, and last year he catered the Guggenheim International Gala. He’s been a model and has had gigs at Cole Haan as well as Louis Vuitton.
Now, he’s headed to the West African nation of Ivory Coast, where he’s opened a boutique hotel and restaurant in a palm-tree-lined beach resort area called Grand-Bassam.
“I want to make another contribution to the beautiful things in this country,” Mr. Traore said. “I want to change people’s perspective.”
Francophone African tourism appealed to retirees from France for years. They clung to the lazy days in big resorts along azure coasts. But Mr. Traore’s hotel, La Fourchette de RozeThe opening of, occurs at a moment when an audience of young Americans is being drawn to the region by top surf breaks and fashion festival. in SenegalArt and design shows in the Democratic Republic of CongoIvory Coast and beyond.
31-year-old Mr. Traore was born in Washington, D.C. His parents are Ivorian and he spent part of his childhood on the Ivory Coast. After the pandemic that slowed tourism, and the taint from a plague of a, the country is now bouncing back. deadly terrorist attackSeven years ago. Grand-Bassam is again attracting tourists, attracted to its fishing culture and colonial architecture, as well as its laid-back beach vibe.
“It feels so incredibly natural to open my first establishment on this land where my ancestors settled and to be surrounded by so many resources,” said Mr. Traore, who was on site this month to put the finishing touches on the Jan. 19 grand opening, including installing the first of what he expects to be a rotating exhibition of local artists.
Mr. Traore is passionately interested in style. He was a friend of mine when I met him at a gallery opening. Kehinde Wiley is an artist who has launched his own ventures in the area. an artist residency in Dakar, Senegal’s capital. As he gazed out across the East River from his perch at the elegant club, Mr. Traore talked to me on a cloudy day in Lower Manhattan. Casa Cipriani.
This conversation has been edited for clarity and length.
Your career has seen a lot of success in America, with your work at Guggenheim as well as curating a menu. an event featuring the actress Lupita Nyong’o. Why would you divert your attention to a completely different project so far away from home?
My entire career over the last 10 years has been focused on building my brand in America and improving my craft. I love my roots, and I’ve always kept my eye on the Ivory Coast as a place I feel instinctively connected and indebted to. As I build my brand, this was another perfect step. I find it a great way to stay grounded and to connect to my roots.
Please tell me more about your roots.
When I was younger, I lived on the Ivory Coast. It was a place where I had these small moments that turned me into a chef — being surrounded by a community, going to the market, enjoying good food with my grandparents. My mom immigrated to the United States to continue her hair-tying career that she had started in Ivory Coast. Her salons are still in operation today. There, she made a name. She traveled back and forth from Ivory Coast to start a real-estate business. She’s a hard-working entrepreneur.
What role did your mom play in your career?
At first she didn’t really understand what I was doing, but now she gets it. She said, “Maybe it’s the time for us to work together.” She bought the property, and we built it up together. It was very wholesome, because my father was a fisherman. It felt great to finally be able to say I’m thankful for where I’m at, for the opportunities that I’ve gained in the States, and I want to return to this place. I’ve always liked small boutiques where you’re able to focus more. It will be like my home, where people can come and enjoy my energy.
Both as a chef or model, you have to believe that presentation matters. Let me describe your hotel.
It has a boutique feel and is very clean. There are six rooms. I’m going to have the classics on the menu, the local fare like braised fish with plantain leaves and attiéké (a cassava-based side dish similar to couscous). There’s nothing too heavy or too busy. I’m a native of the gastro-world, but I love Ivorian cuisine. I’m not here to change the cuisine, and I’m not trying to have a stuffy place. I’m not saying I want to bring three Michelin stars to Ivory Coast. We’ll have elevated cuisine that appeals to a casual crowd. Depending on the hours, you’ll be able to get a quick meal and sit on the beach and chill. We’ll also accommodate V.I.P.s on occasion, but it’s not corporate. It’s just my mom and me.
You’ve had a traditional career as a chef, paying your dues at esteemed restaurants and working under well-known chefs. And you’ve had a traditional modeling career. But being both a model and a chefYou are unique. That has helped you to distinguish yourself.
As a chef, race plays an important role as I am often the only Black man working in the kitchen. This is what makes me unique among my culinary peers. It also reflects my previous life as an actress. It’s easy to communicate between what looks and feels good. All my career, I’ve done fine dining. People always call me for Black History Month appearances at this time of the year. I’m interested in fine dining, but they want me to cook African food or soul food. I’ve stopped answering those calls.
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